Red engine management light - Nissan NV200 Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Red engine management light

Flicks on and off and loss of a bit of power but light goes out if you take your foot off the gas
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 06:06 PM
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Flicks on and off and loss of a bit of power but light goes out if you take your foot off the gas

Did you get to the bottom of this?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 03:44 PM
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Ive had this happen.is it useing oil?there is a sensor at the top of the intercooler pipe, unbolt,unclip and clean the sensor and the hole where it fits on the pipe.check for fractures around the intercooler pipe at the top end,they are prone to cracking which can lead to a loss of power.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2018, 04:44 PM
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Checked the pipe all good replaced the sensor for a new one still get the issue.....?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 04:33 PM
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Did you get this sorted jayc?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 02:10 PM
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Did you get this sorted jayc?
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Did you get this sorted jayc?
Hi,

Yes i have - so its a bit of a longer process i had this red engine management light issue and a cold start issue too. I have dealer level diagnostics and even these did not give a good indication to what the problem was.

It actually started over a 2 years ago - Initially where temperatures fell below 5 degrees or minus temperatures the van would turn and turn but not fire if i connected jump leads from another vehicle the van let them run up the van would fire over straight away. Became really annoying but i had replaced the crank and cam sensors and the MAP sensor too.

Randomly after cleaning the van at the start of this month i took it out pretty cold evening and noticed an injector knocking under load at the higher end of the rev range, before this the injectors never knocked ran sweet as it accelerated well and just on uphills carrying a load i'd get the red engine management light same off the pedal back on it the light would disappear. I'd had this for about a good 2 years but just lived with it.

Over the course of the week the van was struggling to start and then fortunate for me it eventually would not start at all on my driveway at home luckily all my tools are here so i got about fixing it my theory was the injector knock was relational to the cold start issue i'd had for a couple of years over the autumn winter months so i set about stripping the injectors out.

I knew that the Delphi Fuel pumps in these vehicles are prone to failing and shed metal filings all through the injector lines pipes and fuel filter and tank so first this is to get under the van approximately where the fuel flap is and find the shielding cover covering the fuel filter remove the cover and open up the drain plug on the fuel filter - collect the diesel from the filter and then inspect the drained diesel for filings if you have filings stop. You will be needing to replace the fuel pump, clean all the injector lines, fuel tank and recondition the injectors this will be a long laborious task and you might just want to sell the van as a non runner.

If your diesel appears clean as mine did and this should be the case if you do not run the van dry regularly service the van replacing the fuel filter and generally run good diesel. Then read on...

You'll need a the following tools :

- 17mm spanner
- Socket Set
- EGR/Carb Cleaner - I used about 2 x 500ml cans.
- Slide Hammer / Injector Puller
- New Fuel Filter - I brought a Delphi one this is who manufactures the injectors and the fuel pump so they must work together well.
- Diagnostics Machine Capable of Recoding C2i Injector Codes.
- Torx Rail with Torx Sockets.

Remove the pipe work over the covers, and remove the cover concealing the injectors and glow plugs, you will need to remove the dipstick retaining bolts and theres a further two 10mm bolts that hold the underside cover to which the top cover clamps to which conceals the injectors and glow plugs.

Once removed - undo the injector lines they are tight but ones slackened off you can simply undo them by hand.

Unplug the injectors there are 2 pins either side of the plug push these inwards and the connectors come off by pulling them very gently towards the front of the van you should have nice clear access to the injectors. Undo the injector clamps which are held in place by a single torx screw and spray ample amounts of the carb cleaner around the injectors seats this will loosen the crud and hopefully release your injectors a warm engine would help them come free infact one of mine just came out by pulling it the other three i left to soak reapplying more and more carb cleaner and leaving them over night. I borrowed an slide hammer injector puller from a friend and they came out with a few swift pulls. The carb cleaner wont harm on this side of the engine.

Once out you can then choose whether to replenish with new injectors approximately £500-600 or recondition the ones you have by sending them away to a Delphi Specialist who have test benches on which they test and replace the necessary components. This sets you back about £400.00

This was going to take a few days so i soaked some tissue with engine oil and put them in the injector bores just to stop them from deteriorating with oxidization / surface rust. It took about a week for them to turn them around as i specifically asked them to test and recondition my injectors.

Once back you are issued new codes which are recommended to be recoded to the vehicle during installation.

Clean all of the injector lines out with the Carb Cleaner also clean the injector bores with carb cleaner and a lint free cloth shine a torch down them to see if they are nice and clean, you may need to recut the seats i didnt and mine sealed perfectly well with new copper washers on the injectors.

Re-installation is the reverse process install the new filter and use the hand priming bulb to fill the lines and the filter up its located underneath the vehicle under a small concealing piece of metal follow the fuel line from the tank and you'll find it.

The engine will need a few cranks but once running its fine. I recoded the injectors a day after running the vehicle it was instantly noticeable how much smoother the vehicle was even without recoding the injectors. The responsiveness improved two fold no red engine management light under load or on uphills and most importantly no endless cranking cold starts or need to jump start it from another vehicle to get it to run.

Recoded its noticeably quieter smooth on acceleration and having owned it for 5+ years i guess you get used to the way it runs and when it runs so much better you realise it instantly.

So in short - reconditioned injectors, new fuel filter, recoding all subject to no metal particles or a broken pump.

Heres to the next 100,000+ Miles.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 12:48 PM
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Hi,

Yes i have - so its a bit of a longer process i had this red engine management light issue and a cold start issue too. I have dealer level diagnostics and even these did not give a good indication to what the problem was.

It actually started over a 2 years ago - Initially where temperatures fell below 5 degrees or minus temperatures the van would turn and turn but not fire if i connected jump leads from another vehicle the van let them run up the van would fire over straight away. Became really annoying but i had replaced the crank and cam sensors and the MAP sensor too.

Randomly after cleaning the van at the start of this month i took it out pretty cold evening and noticed an injector knocking under load at the higher end of the rev range, before this the injectors never knocked ran sweet as it accelerated well and just on uphills carrying a load i'd get the red engine management light same off the pedal back on it the light would disappear. I'd had this for about a good 2 years but just lived with it.

Over the course of the week the van was struggling to start and then fortunate for me it eventually would not start at all on my driveway at home luckily all my tools are here so i got about fixing it my theory was the injector knock was relational to the cold start issue i'd had for a couple of years over the autumn winter months so i set about stripping the injectors out.

I knew that the Delphi Fuel pumps in these vehicles are prone to failing and shed metal filings all through the injector lines pipes and fuel filter and tank so first this is to get under the van approximately where the fuel flap is and find the shielding cover covering the fuel filter remove the cover and open up the drain plug on the fuel filter - collect the diesel from the filter and then inspect the drained diesel for filings if you have filings stop. You will be needing to replace the fuel pump, clean all the injector lines, fuel tank and recondition the injectors this will be a long laborious task and you might just want to sell the van as a non runner.

If your diesel appears clean as mine did and this should be the case if you do not run the van dry regularly service the van replacing the fuel filter and generally run good diesel. Then read on...

You'll need a the following tools :

- 17mm spanner
- Socket Set
- EGR/Carb Cleaner - I used about 2 x 500ml cans.
- Slide Hammer / Injector Puller
- New Fuel Filter - I brought a Delphi one this is who manufactures the injectors and the fuel pump so they must work together well.
- Diagnostics Machine Capable of Recoding C2i Injector Codes.
- Torx Rail with Torx Sockets.

Remove the pipe work over the covers, and remove the cover concealing the injectors and glow plugs, you will need to remove the dipstick retaining bolts and theres a further two 10mm bolts that hold the underside cover to which the top cover clamps to which conceals the injectors and glow plugs.

Once removed - undo the injector lines they are tight but ones slackened off you can simply undo them by hand.

Unplug the injectors there are 2 pins either side of the plug push these inwards and the connectors come off by pulling them very gently towards the front of the van you should have nice clear access to the injectors. Undo the injector clamps which are held in place by a single torx screw and spray ample amounts of the carb cleaner around the injectors seats this will loosen the crud and hopefully release your injectors a warm engine would help them come free infact one of mine just came out by pulling it the other three i left to soak reapplying more and more carb cleaner and leaving them over night. I borrowed an slide hammer injector puller from a friend and they came out with a few swift pulls. The carb cleaner wont harm on this side of the engine.

Once out you can then choose whether to replenish with new injectors approximately £500-600 or recondition the ones you have by sending them away to a Delphi Specialist who have test benches on which they test and replace the necessary components. This sets you back about £400.00

This was going to take a few days so i soaked some tissue with engine oil and put them in the injector bores just to stop them from deteriorating with oxidization / surface rust. It took about a week for them to turn them around as i specifically asked them to test and recondition my injectors.

Once back you are issued new codes which are recommended to be recoded to the vehicle during installation.

Clean all of the injector lines out with the Carb Cleaner also clean the injector bores with carb cleaner and a lint free cloth shine a torch down them to see if they are nice and clean, you may need to recut the seats i didnt and mine sealed perfectly well with new copper washers on the injectors.

Re-installation is the reverse process install the new filter and use the hand priming bulb to fill the lines and the filter up its located underneath the vehicle under a small concealing piece of metal follow the fuel line from the tank and you'll find it.

The engine will need a few cranks but once running its fine. I recoded the injectors a day after running the vehicle it was instantly noticeable how much smoother the vehicle was even without recoding the injectors. The responsiveness improved two fold no red engine management light under load or on uphills and most importantly no endless cranking cold starts or need to jump start it from another vehicle to get it to run.

Recoded its noticeably quieter smooth on acceleration and having owned it for 5+ years i guess you get used to the way it runs and when it runs so much better you realise it instantly.

So in short - reconditioned injectors, new fuel filter, recoding all subject to no metal particles or a broken pump.

Heres to the next 100,000+ Miles.
Great post, thanks. I get what you mean with getting used to how the van runs however bad it is. I have a 110hp ntec and I know itís capable of so much more and will be elated when I get to that stage.
20 years ago we wouldnít be having these conversations, we would have stripped the engine with a 10mm spanner and a flathead screwdriver in our lunch time!
EU emissions rules - Pahhhh!
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